Cartier's reputation as a watchmaker has been secure in the minds of watch enthusiasts for probably close to a hundred years, but its clockmaking has always been a bit more in the background. While for most of its history Cartier replica watches were quite exclusive as well (it is surprising when you first start looking into the Tank that, for much of its history, Cartier made less than a hundred a year, and sometimes far fewer than that), its clocks have always been something for connoisseurs and rather more out of the public eye than in it.
The reason for this is straightforward. Cartier has generally treated clockmaking as an area in which to exercise its capabilities in design as much as possible and as a master of decorative arts. Cartier clocks have often been horologically innovative as well. Even mechanically simple Cartier clocks are works of decorative art, often with elaborate engraving and enameling. Its most complex clocks include the famous "mystery" clocks, in which the hands of the clock are suspended in transparent panes of rock crystal and move with no apparent connection to any mechanism.
Recently, Christie's has announced an upcoming auction in which a total of 101 Cartier clocks ?mystery clocks and others ?will be offered, and to say that it is a remarkable collection is to say nothing at all. It is, I believe, one of the largest, if not the largest, collections of Cartier clocks ever to go to auction, and it includes wonderful examples of just about every genre of clockmaking in which Cartier historically has excelled.
Art Deco, Mother-Of-Pearl, Onyx, Jade, And Enamel Desk ClockThis lot, no. 80, is a classic example of Cartier clockmaking during the high Deco period. Completed in 1925, it's perhaps a bit more restrained than some of Cartier's work from the Belle Epoque era prior to World War I, but it's still a rather opulent clock, with an imposing carved onyx case, jade plaques on the pedestal base, a mother of pearl dial, and a red enamel circle with diamond accents setting off the whole thing.
This was, like many of Cartier's clocks, designed as a desk or table clock ?one can only imagine what the rest of the desk, and office, of someone who could own one of these must have looked like. This particular clock was at Christie's Geneva in 2014, where it realized CHF 93,750 on a high estimate of CHF 25,000. The estimate this time around is CHF 70,000?00,000 or $74,000-100,000. It comes with the case, if that's what'll close the deal for you.
ADVERTISEMENT Art Deco Mother-Of-Pearl, Enamel, Turquoise, Moonstone, And Diamond Desk ClockA number of Cartier's most famous clocks were inspired by Asian architecture and design motifs. (Probably the most famous is the "Billiken" portico clock, which was made in 1923 and is a so-called double mystery clock, in which both the minute and hour hands are present). This clock, signed "Cartier Paris Londres" no. 2027, is not a mystery clock, but it is an example of the extremely complex and elaborate decoration lavished on Cartier's clocks during the period. One is a technique known as laque burgauté. The term refers to decorating enamelware with insets made of the polished blue-green shell of marine snails of the genus Haliotis ?that's abalone to us proles.
As well, there are mother-of-pearl panels beneath the Roman numerals, turquoise cabochons set off by rose-cut diamonds, cabochon moonstones, and of course, a mechanical movement. Dating from 1926, this clock was made by Maurice Couët, who came from a family of clockmakers and had established his own workshop by 1912, and who is responsible for some of Cartier's most spectacular clocks of the era. Estimate is CHF 120,000-180,000 or $130,000-190,000.
Rare Early 20th Century Glass, Silver, And Enamel Urn ClockNot that the other ones aren't, but this is a showstopper. Made in 1904, this lot, no. 93, is one of a genre of so-called urn clocks which Cartier began making in 1901. Urn clocks pre-exist Cartier's versions but the company became famous for them as well as other clocks, such as the mystery and comet clocks, which showed the time in an unusual fashion. This particular clock is signed "Cartier Paris" with a movement by Prévost. The body of the urn is in dark blue opaline glass, with silver gilt elements, and a horizontally arranged movement drives the two rotating hour and minute rings. Estimate is CHF 80,000?00,000, or $84,000-130,000.
Planet 'Semi-Mystery Day' And Night Desk ClockFinally, one of my personal favorites from the entire collection ?lot no. 102. This is a desk clock completed by Maurice Couét for Cartier in 1913. His specialities for Cartier included his so-called comet clocks, in which the hour hand is represented by a heavenly body ?in this case, the Moon and Sun ?but also and often, a stylized representation of a comet. Technically, this is what is known as a "semi-mystery" clock. The Latin inscription on the dial reads "I do not count the hours if they are not brilliant," which I think I might add to my family coat-of-arms.
Day and night hours indicated by the Sun and Moon, with an outer chapter ring for the minutes.
This particular clock has been at Christie's before. In 2008, it hammered for CHF 133,000, over a high estimate of CHF 50,000, which is obviously a rather eyebrow-raising result. It's both an amazingly opulent and beautifully balanced design, with a central dial in a very delicate pale blue enamel over guilloché (a technique known as flinqué) in an agate case, with rose-cut diamonds around the hour chapter ring. The estimate on this lot is CHF 140,000?00,000 or $150,000-210,000, which, given the result in 2008, seems perfectly realistic. This is a wonderful example of the synthesis of different decorative crafts, as well as the horologist's art, and a work of beautiful serenity made on the eve of a very un-serene time in the history of the 20th century.
Christie's Geneva Auction Week will take place at the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues. The viewing opens on June 27 and will run until June 30, daily from 10:00 AM to 6:00 PM. The Magnificent Jewels auction will take place on July 1 in two sessions at 2:00 PM and 6:00 PM, and the clock collection will be sold at the beginning of the 2:00 PM session. The catalogue is available to view online at Christies.com.
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